Wursts are out and kababs in at 612 O'Farrell St., where the German Cook, open since 1951, has closed its doors. Coming soon, the sign says, is an Indian-Pakistani restaurant, Lahore Karahi.
For those keeping score, that will make at least a dozen Indian restaurants in a roughly mile-long swath of downtown San Francisco, from Polk and Pine to Sixth and Mission. Call it the Tandoorloin.
Lahore Karahi will be right in the heart of things, about midway between the new Shalimar to the northwest and the Gujarati restaurant Haveli to the southeast. It will also be just a block west of curry central, O'Farrell and Jones, where six Punjabi places (including hound hangouts Shalimar, Naan 'n' Curry and Pakwan) jostle one another within a one-block radius. Rounding out the dozen are a couple of older upscale places I haven't visited in a long time (Maharani on Post, New Delhi on Ellis) and two restaurants I've never tried (Sheesh Mahal on Polk, Taj Mahal on Eddy -- anyone been?). If Punjab Kabab House at Eddy and Mason reopens, that would be one more. And I'm probably forgetting some other place.
Now if only someone around here would open a southern Indian place like Dasaprakash or Saravana Bhawan to the south . . .