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Two excellent fluffy fishes

Thi N. | Apr 22, 2003 09:55 PM

I have previously been obsessed with fluffy pork - largely achieved by roasting (El Chochinito) or frying (Antonjiro Denise's carnitas.)

The first fluffy fish I had was at Mandarin Deli, two years ago, in their fish dumplings. Only available at the Chinatown branch, I hear, and they frequently run out. Lovely. It has about the consistency of freshly whipped cream inside some dense dumpling-skin, and a savory fish flavor. Juicy, too. I loved it.

I showed up at my favorite bagel joint today - the Bagel Broker, on Beverly - and, remembering a recent post, tried something new - whitefish salad on onion.

I have had a fair amount of smoked whitefish in my time. It's nothing like an obsession, but I like it. This was a new whitefish.

The flavor was light, clean. The slightest touch of fresh mayo, maybe. Mostly, shredded, fluffed up whitefish. Felt creamy in the mouth - felt creamier that it tasted, with a gentle, lifting, zingy flavor.

You know, it's funny. Two totally different cultures, and there's such convergence. Both making a fluffy fish dish making the flavor very light, delicate, and kind of high-quiet-singing flavor, no intense deep low fish flavor - though both of those cultures appreciate deep low fish flavors. I think it's kind of a appropriate pairing with texture. The gentleness of fluffiness would be ruined by stanky, dense, oily fish flavors. You have to make the flavor as gentle as the fluff.


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