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Esperia - Brighton Center

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Restaurants & Bars

Esperia - Brighton Center

lergnom | May 18, 2008 05:05 PM

Esperia is a Greek restaurant located in the block with Devlin's on Washington, directly across from Smoken Joe's. It's actually set back from the street, sharing a small building and tiny parking lot with a package store.

How to describe? It's a counter, but a really, really nice one, like the kind you'd find in a nice bakery. The tables are nice marble, with real chairs, and they bring you the food on real plates. But it's a counter. And the specials board is scrawled in marker over the register.

They have other weird touches too. The salad dressing comes in a little plastic container with a lid, like for takeout, but the taramosala (or any appetizer) comes in a big mound heaped on a real plate with a separate plate of warmed pita. It's like they get half the things right: they sell wine and the displays are very nice but then they have a cooler of cold drinks.

The prices are low and are very low considering the taste of the food: a large spinach pie plus soup and salad for $8, pastistio with a side and a salad for $9. Another oddity: you pick the side dish from one of the display cases.

When I first went, I thought everything would be mushy, old crap that was sitting there but the food is made with care and isn't merely dished out and slung at you. The egg-lemon soup is light and lemony (and more of a bowl than a cup). Their bechamel is light and creamy. The best side, IMO, is spinach and rice. The food is lightly seasoned, which is not always the case at Greek places around here. (And then the Greek salads are machine cut lettuce with that dressing in a plastic cup. Beats me.)

Two can eat a good meal in a pleasant environment for a little over $20, a little more with drinks. They also serve pizza, calzones, etc. and I've seen people eating them but I haven't had the urge to try one.

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