Restaurants & Bars 6

Elliot's, Borough Market, Southwark, London

limster | Aug 21, 201104:23 AM

A medium to coarse ground in the burger, medium rare as requested, a good shade of pink. Nice flavour in the meat, but with less of the deep beefiness and more of a lighter mellow meaty quality (almost porky to me); moist and juicy, but not overly drippy or gushy. A good coat of cheese (something hard, a Comte?) for just a bit of nutty contrast. Some onions I think, but without much of the oniony sweetness I love in a burger. Bread is light, wispy, with what looked like chopped oats or some sort of grain on top. The dimensions of the burger fit the bun neatly, the whole architecture a cylinder seamlessly changing form bun to beef and back again. Very thin matchstick fries, all crunch, laced with a bit of rosemary. The house made ketchup is slightly watery in consistency, but has a light tomatoey flavour one sometimes sees in Italian sauces, not big and punchy like Heintz. Crisp slices of cucumber, lightly dressed as in a sunomono. Another dab of a dark umami heavy relish of some sort. It was £10.50 iirc, which is probably typical of Borough Market pricing.

Pork cheeks, between runny and firm gelatin in texture, was coated in breadcrumbs for a crispy shell. Full on porky pungency. Cut a little by the light tartare sauce. IIRC £7 or 7.50.

John Dory was firm but not as delicate and moist as other renditions I've had in the past. A big puddle of oil for flavour; some courgette, cubed and mixed in a vegetable puree of some sort (mushy peas?); stalks of mushrooms, generally quite mild. Nothing special unfortunately. £16.50 I think.

Superb apple sorbet, fresh, aromatic, evocative, great balance of tart and sweet. A good slushy smoothness punctuated with crunchy crystals. £3.50.

Pretty good but not great, but expect the place to evolve as it just opened a few days ago.

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