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El Taurino – recent notes

tarabell | Nov 4, 200502:54 PM

The taco thread below reminded me--I finally had the opportunity to stop by El Taurino on Hoover St. the other night and try something besides the tacos, which I love. I got the Costillas Rancheras which I saw reviewed somewhere as being what “everyone gets”. This is an enormous plate of food, and can easily be shared by two. Cost is about $9. It looks like about a pound of thinly sliced ribs, topped with piles of well-seared grilled onions. It also comes with beans, plenty of corn tortillas and a big dollop of guacamole. The beans are the separate kind (as opposed to mushy) and the guac is ok--more commercial than homemade. The only thing is the meat is heavily ribboned with fat and somewhat chewy. The fat is easily removed though. This is the dish to get when you’re in a real cowboy mood.

I still think their tacos are hard to beat--especially the lengua which is velvety and soft. I find the chopped onion can be a little overwhelming to the meat so I always tell them to skip it and I just add a little extra green chile on top. The green chile is almost as complex and robust as the red, I think. But that red is amazing--smoky and hot at the same time and just the thing to go with the costillas. It is perfect with the pastor--my second favorite taco. My next goal is to return on the weekend and try the lamb barbacoa--we’ve tried before once or twice but they’ve always run out by evening.

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