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Restaurants & Bars

El Papasito

Dave Feldman | Apr 10, 1999 02:40 AM

Went to El Papasito (touted in the Alpha Hound's book)
for the third time tonight, but the first time for
dinner. It's a treat at dinner, because it is far
less busy than at lunch, and the food is just as good.

My friend Stinky had the steak with mofungo. It
reminded me of liver and onions (a thin steak, topped
with large rings of sauteed onions, and accompanied
with a small salad and gravy on the side)and I had two
specials: the fish soup and a (beautifully) stewed
chicken, with the usual rice and beans.

If you haven't eaten much Domininican food, I think
this is the place to start, not because the selections
are unusual, but because the typical dishes are
executed with a lightness and finesse. I haven't
found better mofungo or beans in NYC, and the batidas
are terrific, too. The fruit batidas available didn't
appeal to me tonight, so I tried a vanilla shake. It
was fantastic, with the unmistakable taste of orange.
It tasted a little like a liquid Dreamsicle, except
much better.

The TV set was on throughout the night, with the
waiters alternating between the Mets Game, the Braves
game (one of the customers was wearing a Georgia Tech
jacket), and Latin American soap operas.

El Papasito is located at 370 W. 52 St., just east of
Ninth Ave.

On the way from the subway exit to El Papasita, I
passed Wondee Siam, and the smells were extremely
tempting. Stinky informed me that it was his favorite
Thai in the neighborhood. And although they have only
a few tables, it looked charming in a flourescent
light and vinyl tabletop kind of way, including a
charming daughter running around happily.

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