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allan evans | Sep 7, 199708:10 AM     15

After a trip to Cairo it was a joy to return to
the Kabob Cafe in Astoria, Queens. The ful
mudammes was laden with garlic and herbs, and
luscious tempting mashi (stuffed zucchini and
peppers) made one ravenous for more. Even in
Egypt one doesn't always find properly brewed
karkade (hibiscus tea). Chef Ali made an infusion
from the dried flowers - no shortcuts with
powders or (yuck) teabags. Also his liquorice tea
is awesome. Note how the profusion of green herbs
and vegetables lining the counter resembles the
Nile Valley.
Allan Evans

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