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Restaurants & Bars

Three eats

Limster | Mar 2, 2003 10:24 PM

Taberna de Haro, Brookline

Many thanks to Italophile for recommending the fried shark -- meaty fish, firm yet silky fibres, clean flavours and crisp exterior. Lovely with a squeeze of lemon, sharp perfumy acidity against the rich fish.

A special of oxtail stuffed peppers was pleasant, pitting savoury meatiness against soft sweet pepper. It initially came with a lukewarm interior, but the waitress happily brought it back for reheating without any fuss.

Suishaya, Chinatown, Boston

Waitress recommended the bulgoki, a Korean staple of marinated beef slices cooked on a grill, or in this case, finished on a cast iron plate. Very tender, good flavours with onions and scallions, as well a nice sprinkle sesame seeds. Not out of this world, but competently made and satisfying.

The 5 dishes of panchan were fine but undistinguished, perhaps a slight bit too cold. I did like the sweet syrup saturated soybeans, hardness and all.

Taverna Toscanna, North End, Boston

Very tender stuffing of veal and sausage in a soft roasted pepper, lovely tomato sauce and sweet sweet shreds of fragrant basil.

The pork chops unfortunately were a little tough, perhaps ever so slightly overcooked. Nice porky flavour nevertheless, with delicious roasted potatoes that soaked up the oils and sour pickled peppers.

Overall a fine if unexceptional dinner; relatively inexpensive for the touristy North End. Wished that they had more Tuscan dishes e.g. tripe, wild boar..... Not in a hurry to go back, but will probably try their vegetable antipasta and sausage, meatballs and peppers (which they tout as their signature on the menu) next time.

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