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Easter Dinner Delux at Deuxave

opinionatedchef | Mar 29, 201609:15 PM

As the icy wind practically blew me into the hostess station at Deuxave, and I was hustled through the sleek grey dining room to our table, I had one ironic thought: <I think this may be the only luxurious dinner I'll ever have in a space that was once a White Hen Pantry!> And, as they say, that's why some restaurant designers make the big bucks.

I loved our table; upholstered high-back arm chairs
in what felt like our own private space. Unlike Sycamore or Alden and Harlow, where I could repeat verbatim every word from a neighboring table, at Deuxave I could see people were talking, but I heard nothing. In such a peaceful setting. the food fit right in. Our app was a generous and perfectly rendered duck confit and frisee salad, served with 'the best table bread' i've had in ages- a cheese tinged brioche, soft and luxuriant as could be. Our entree
was a duo of Colorado lamb- beautifully rosy roasted loin, and braised, in generously filled ravioli. The beautifully plated lamb was highlighted by fava beans, pistachio gremolata and spinach pesto- each an essential component. The dessert course was just as thoughtful and well executed- a Cardamom cheesecake on a biscuit crust with lemon ice cream and rhubarb in various forms- candied, compote and foam, all playing off each other with admirable balance. Our hats are off for the chefs at Deuxave. Hopefully when we return, service will have improved, as both the assistant hostess and our server showed quite a need for training.

Nevertheless, it's easy to say that Deuxave is a lovely choice for diners who enjoy food that is elegant in flavor and presentation, in an atmosphere that is conducive to quiet conversation. While cost relegates it to 'special occasions' for us, we left feeling peaceful and pleasantly full, and that the expense was worthwhile.

Alden & Harlow
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