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Restaurants & Bars

Duke of Wellington, Marylebone, London

limster | May 16, 200903:18 PM     5

Comes well recommended by friends for which I'm grateful. Very well made and delicious food that doesn't beat about the bush.

Good flavour in the meaty smoked mackerel, firm but lightly and evenly moist. Beneath that the comforts and textured softness of egg and potato, dotted with occasional chives (iirc), their creamy textures punctuated by the soft crunch of tangy red onion.

The sunday roast of pork was beautiful - meaty, juicy and deep, and a smooth gravy with gravity. The crispy surface of the duck fat roasted potatoes was exceedingly savoury. All that richness balanced with cabbage and carrots, cooked properly and without any fuss. A modern wink in the form of a quenelle of quince compote, fruity sweet contrast to the pork. Only minus was the blunt and hard crackling, if only it was crispy it would have been a perfect dish.

A solid and respectable sticky toffee pudding, the sauce nicely soaked through.

A drinkable pinot noir by the glass, not something I'd remember for too long, but enough acidity and soft gentle fruit and mild earth to follow the pork.

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