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Domani, Back Bay, Boston


Restaurants & Bars 3

Domani, Back Bay, Boston

Limster | Mar 18, 2005 12:49 AM

Pheasant consomme shows remarkable clarity and aroma. I could see how some folks might find the peppery flavour rather potent, but beneath it are evocative clovey dark spices that remind me strongly of bah kut teh, a wonderful, multifaceted soup of pork ribs, herbs and spices that I've never seen made properly outside of Singapore. Adding to the complexity are mushrooms; slippery and earthy, they take to the spice naturally.

The sweetness of the spring pea puree in the tortelli is heightened by an orange sauce, a blissful marriage of early spring and late winter. Snow white ricotta lends richness, balanced by the citrus and pea sweetness, a thick blanket of softness against al dente tortelli. Eating all with a tiny leaf of mint is relevatory.

A Nobu-esque miso marinated black cod is cooked to a perfect suppleness, buoyed by waves of truffle aroma from truffle oil.

Pistacchio mille foglie had the right amount of nuttiness, and matched a peachy gelato.

Forgot the name, but I drank a glass of very good white wine from Piedmonte that started with an initial point of sweetness, acidity and fizzy texture, followed by a pleasant minerality, and finally a subtle buttery caramel finish that reminded me of some white burgundies.

Finished with a good pot of vanilla tea.

I was very pleased with the portion sizes -- not so overwhelming as to preclude one from ordering a half order of pasta.

All of the above and tax for just a pinch below $60, not including tip. Antipasti mostly under $10, a couple in the low to mid teens. Primi/pasta are around $9 for a half portion, teens for full portion. Main courses are mostly in the $20-30 range, with a veal chop and bistecca at $32 and $36 respectively. Desserts go from $8-9 iirc.

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