Restaurants & Bars 8

Dinner @ OM

Limster | Jan 11, 2006 05:45 AM

I promised details on dinner at Om last week:

Popcorn takes on saltiness from parmesan cheese and serves as a nice vehicle for truffle oil. A hint of herbal flavour from dill. Served in lieu of bread and butter.

An amuse of asparagus and celery soup gives off bright concentrated vegetable flavours. Nice presentation -- served in a slim shot glass with a stalk of asparagus tip elegantly flourishing in the glass.

The rosewater and cardamom perfume that sticks to a zoolbia-like funnel cake brings a certain kind of grace to a generous piece of foie gras. The crispy bits of the fried funnel cake contrasting nicely with the seared, near liquid foie gras. Good technique in the searing, the centre still a tiny hint of cold, the texture near-perfect. Would have been a slightly better rendition if the foie gras had been cut thicker, but that's a quibble. Crushed pistacchios make a good nutty pairing, along with the weighty flavours of a stout reduction, both ingredients enhancing the rich foie. Lastly, sharp microgreens to cut the richness. A dish with many parts that fall together beautifully.

Steak and eggs has a Keller-esque name. The dish is made by a outstanding egg, soft cooked, battered and likely flash-fried. Cut into the egg, and the truffle oil flavour wafts out as the liquid golden yolk runs. A livery hunk of beef (cooked to a satisfying medium rare) catches these flavours, along with a base of mashed potatoes. The flavours mingle well of a heavy red-wine sauce, thickened with rib-sticking demi-glace. A pile of poached asparagus providing a clean contrst of flavours.

My dessert was well conceived but poorly executed. Tea-Time is a set of 4 sweet bites, all flavoured with tea. A little shot of bubble tea is based on good rich tea, but the tapioca balls are mushy; places in Chinatown (e.g. at Chinatown Eatery) are significantly better in this area. Darjeeling flavoured cream comes off very subtly in tiny, cute profiteroles, the shells more tender rather than crisp hard. The Moroccan mint tea tart is my favourite of the lot -- interesting, great mint flavour to hold on to the sweetness, and the nuanced complexity of tea whispering beneath. Nice crust too. A chai cake is gorgeously decorated with gold leaf, and gives of a good enticing ginger flavour,with a hint of other spices (cardamom?) beneath. But the cake is terribly dry.

Creative, exiciting food with good fundamentals. This will likely be a trendy hotspot in a few months; worth experiencing before that happens.

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