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Restaurants & Bars

Dim Sum at Gum Fung

Dennison | Sep 22, 2002 11:38 PM

Enjoyed dim sum with my parents and grandfather this morning at the brand new Gum Fung Restaurant in Flushing, which is a sister restaurant to the behemoth Jing Fong on Elizabeth downtown. Gum Fung has taken over the old KB Garden space at 136-28 39th Avenue, which makes it a strong contender for the biggest dim sum joint in Flushing today. It's a cavernous main space, very noisy and bustling, with carts weaving dextrously around jampacked tables, often with up to four generations per family. There is another smaller and quieter room tucked above in one corner that offers respite for the timid, but on a busy Sunday it's best to take whatever table is offered. We arrived at 11:30AM and faced a daunting crowd of about 100 folks already waiting in the lobby -- there's very little that Chinese love more than a grand opening of a new restaurant. Got our number at the front (#86) as they were calling out #37, but we decided to wait. It only took about 30 minutes for our party of five to be called.

Overall, the dim sum was quite good and fresh, although I suspect the selection available in the upstairs area was more limited than in the main room. They appear to be making a special effort to carry more special items on the carts -- higher-ticket things like snails and clams are showcased alongside all of the classic standbys. Based on one visit, I'd say that they're currently trying real hard to establish their rep and doing a good job -- its better than Jing Fong and is definitely a worthwhile addition to the Flushing dim sum scene. My family also likes East Lake a lot for dim sum, but Gum Fung is far easier to get to for those limited to the subway. Besides, the new joint certainly offers up that super-crowded mad-hectic vibe that many consider de riguer for Sunday dim sum.

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