A few weeks ago I noticed a new restaurant along the bustling stretch of Bangladeshi shops and cafes that line 73rd St in Jackson Heights, Queens. It's called the Dhaka Kabab & Biryani House, and it's always crowded. A good sign. Today I tried it. As in most of these places, there's a steam table at front where you order. The cashier was fluent in English and very friendly, and from what he said Kacchi Biryani, a dish originally from Hyderabad, was the thing they were proudest of, so I ordered. A waiter brought it to my table. It was delicious, and it didnt taste as if it had spent even a minute languishing on a steam table. The basmati rice was moist and fragrant, redolent of strange perfume. It was studded with big chunks of goat meat. The meat was very fresh and milder than I'm accustomed to, which probably says something about the age of the goat meat in places I usually get it. On top was a hardboiled egg that had then been deep fried in bright orange batter. I thought it was an orange. All this was $9, including a salad and glass of lassi.
If I had a friend whom I wanted to impress with the multinational culinarty delights of Queens, I'd probably take him somewhere else. But if he expressed a craving for a really good biryani, that's where we'd go.
Dhaka Kabab & Biryani House, 37-11 73 St
Note: I noticed that this place had an apparently shortlived previous incarnation last year, and Jim L. reviewed it then. You apparently had to walk upstairs and through a kitchen. This new place is downstairs, is quite big, and is doing a booming business.