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Restaurants & Bars 4

[DFW] Nana

Scott | Apr 4, 2005 12:50 PM

I recently made my first visit to Nana since David McMillan's departure. Anthony Bombaci has reshaped the menu quite a bit, bringing in a lot more Asian influences and some interesting dish concepts (e.g., a dessert of tomato marmalade with fennel pollen and Greek yogurt sorbet, pictured below).

On this visit, however, the menu rarely lived up to its promise. In some instances, that was due to glitches in execution (e.g., a lobster carpaccio course so heavily salted it was crunchy). In others, it was the concept that came up short (e.g., a tom kha that didn't stand out from comparable offerings of average Thai restaurants). Nothing was bad. Nor was anything great. Food-wise, the quality and consistency were much closer to a decent mid-priced New American eatery than a solid up-scale restaurant. (In other words, 3 Mobil stars, rather than 4 or 5.)

Will the new Nana hang with the big boys in Dallas dining? Or will it become just another hotel restaurant? We'll have to wait and see.

For a course-by-course breakdown (with photos) of the chef's menu, see the link below.




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