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Texas BBQ

[DFW] Longoria's BBQ and Hickory Stick

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[DFW] Longoria's BBQ and Hickory Stick

Scott | Jan 3, 2005 12:01 PM

Short report here, with more details and photos at the link below. Both Longoria's and Hickory Stick are on Enon, the main strip running east-west through Everman (south of I-20 and east of I-35W).

Went to Hickory Stick first. Very good brisket, just shy of "eating brisket"--moist, flavorful, with good smoke and a bit of crust to it. Regular sausage was mostly (if not entirely) pork, but lean, dense, and pleasantly seasoned. Good stuff. The hot links (from Smokey Denmark's) were pretty good, but I kept getting distracted by the quasi-"beef jerky" character of the spices. Spare ribs were outstanding--smoky, succulent, and with a beautifully formed bark (pictured below). I want more of them. Now.

Longoria's, which made Texas Monthly's "top fifty," faltered. Their brisket was dry and not particularly smoky. (Longoria's, unlike most places in DFW, uses oak. Too bad I couldn't taste it on the meat.) The meat on their ribs was slightly above average in texture and flavor, but the overpowering rub cemented itself into a hard, unpleasantly tasting shell that made them difficult to eat. I can't imagine they're always making that mistake with the ribs. But, on this day, it was a real problem. Their sausage, however, was very, very good. Housemade links of 100% ground brisket, these are the closest thing I've found in DFW to great Central Texas beef sausage. (And, since they also make "brisket burgers" from the same meat, I'm interested to go back for a burger.) The sausage puts this place on the map.

Both places are worth repeat visits.

Scott

Link: http://www.dallasfood.org/modules.php...

Image: http://www.dallasfood.org/photos/dfwb...

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