Restaurants & Bars 2

Dazzling Donuts in Delmarva

zora | Apr 28, 2003 12:42 AM

Please forgive the alliteration. I spent the weekend in Ocean City and the ultimate highlight of the trip was made-to-order donuts at The Fractured Prune on route 1 at about 30th st. (The next block after Pancho and Lefty's). I suppose the concept is inspired by the Krispy Kreme "hot donuts" phenomenon. But the FP goes one step further. You order the number of donuts you want, and the toppings you want. And then the guy makes the donuts for you. They are cake-type, and unbelievably tender: batter dropped into the hot oil, versus rolled-out dough. They take just a minute or two to make. Then he dips them in glaze, or rolls them in cinnamon sugar or powdered sugar, or tops with coconut, peanuts, chocolate sprinkles, etc. And puts them in a box and you eat them hot. Wow! This is an idea whose time has come. No need for bakers to work all night, no day-old donuts at the end of the day. And they are so much more delicious, as is anything fried, when it comes right out of the fat.

Other culinary high points of the visit were deep fried, too -- calamari at Ristorante Antipasti were perfect. Crispy, light batter, very fresh tasting and tender. The marinara sauce was ok, but we improvised -- drizzling the squid pieces with lemon and dipping them in the olive oil with roasted garlic cloves that was on the table for dipping bread into. Yum! The marinated cornish hen grilled under a brick was superb--crisp skin and juicy, flavorful meat.

I couldn't believe how huge the softshell crabs were at The Captain's Galley. They were crisp and flavorful-- as were the crab cakes, which were large mounds of lump Chesapeake crabmeat, no filler. Very fresh and sweet. Pedestrian salad bar and Wonderbread rolls, but it's all about local seafood there.

Galaxy Grill was our final stop. Very stylish interior, unexpected in a strip-mall beach burg like OC. Best dishes there were appetizers -- husb's conch chowder and my lemon risotto with morel mushrooms, asparagus and aged gouda. A very generous portion for $10. There were lots of big, juicy morels in it, and the texture was just right. And desserts-- warm brownie bread pudding with caramel ice cream and caramel sauce was one of the best chocolate desserts I've ever had. And my daughter ordered tangerine sorbet, which was delicately perfumed, not cloyingly sweet, as sorbets often are, and very refreshing. They had a nice touch--individual French press coffee pots with choice of Java or Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee. Major bummer of the meal was my daughter's main course--the only vegetarian option available. Gnocchi. Came deep fried with an asian flavored sauce. Think tough lumps with flavorless library paste inside, swimming in a thin soy-ginger liquid. Minor bummer was the house-made foccaccia, which was undercooked and gummy. A very respectable wine list, but few choices for $30 or less. Several good wines by the glass, though. Husb had a well-made Australian shiraz-cab with his filet. And I had a French white I'd never heard of - a blend of viognier and sauvignon blanc that was a perfect accompaniment to my risotto and my main course of scallops on mini potato pancakes.

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