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Restaurants & Bars

Five days in central and N. Auvergne: Comptoir à Moustaches, in Saint-Gervais-d’Auvergne; Chateau Ygrande; and Le Bistrot de Guillaume, in Moulins

Jake Dear | Sep 2, 201802:51 PM     6

(The Sancerre area part of this trip is described here: https://www.chowhound.com/post/sancer...)

Castel Hotel 1904, http://castel-hotel-1904.com/en,1,694... 63390 Saint-Gervais-d’Auvergne, in Puy de Dome. Here you will find simple and pleasant rooms and a family run establishment for five generations. Unfortunately the beautiful main dining room/ restaurant was not open during our visit, and we settled on the hotel’s bistro, Comptoir à Moustaches. But there were some lovely standouts: the restaurant’s generations-old special, a piping hot “crêpe Célina,” served in an iron gratin dish, made with copious cream; and, to a lesser extent, the pâté de pommes de terre -- layers of sliced potatoes with bits of bacon and/or ham and again lots of cream.

Lunch fairly nearby in the pleasant town of Clermont-Ferrand was good at Le Duguesclin, http://colombierx.wixsite.com/le-dugu.... and certainly the cooking was a counterpoint to the hearty and traditional fare at the Castel Hotel.

Then we were on to Saint-Pourçain, where we walked and drove in the vineyards and had decent fish at Auberge des Aubrelles, https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran... before arriving at our final lodging at Chateau Ygrande, https://www.chateauygrande.fr/en/4-st... We unpacked and immediately embarked on our favorite pastime there: Walking/ hiking with the hotel’s weimaraners through the chestnut trees and horse trails on the expansive property. Dinners there were good. So was a lunch and signature foie gras at La Table du Prince, www.maison-conde.com in the lovely old village of 03140 Charroux (excellent mustards made in the adjoining buildings). But the best dining in this area was our Italian-influenced lunch at Le Bistrot de Guillaume, https://fr-fr.facebook.com/Le-bistrot... in the lovely city of Moulins. Standouts: arancini; and risotto with asparagus.

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