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Dallas-Fort Worth

Dallas dining experiences: 1 great, 1 good, 1 so-so


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Restaurants & Bars 5

Dallas dining experiences: 1 great, 1 good, 1 so-so

ponocat | Dec 11, 2008 06:27 PM

I just visited Dallas where I ate a Bijoux, Dean Fearing's, and Stephan Pyles'. Fearing's was a mixed experience with some really great dishes and others surprisingly plain and, in one case, just bad. Pyles' performance was outstanding and I would go back there several more times if I could. Bijoux is almost sad by comparison with the other two and I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't last much longer.

I give a full description on my website of the meals, but let me summarize a couple of highlights here. The most fantastic dish I had at Fearing's was “smoked-pecan-rolled foie gras with black pepper caramel on roasted apples and cornflake fried sea scallop in spiced cider broth and crushed peanut brittle.” It was innovative and extraordinary in the diversity of tastes that all went together so perfectly. (I got this dish after turning in a plate of substandard hamachi.)

At Pyles, the greatest course was the “wood-fired whole fish (bronzini) with vanilla-roasted fennel and couscous-pine nut salad. The smokiness of the fish came through beautifully and bronzini is now definitely on my radar; it's a great fish.

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