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Restaurants & Bars 5

Crush Restaurant, Toronto

Chili | Jun 24, 2002 10:24 PM

I visited Crush this past weekend and I agree with an earlier post on this place - it really is very good. It is set inside an old warehouse on King St, west of Spadina. Very well spaced tables in a loft-like atmosphere allowing for privacy, but, be warned, the place is very noisy. Service was very good, although the dishes arrived quite slowly.

The food was the real highlight. To begin, we had quail leg confit (4 superb quail legs and only $9) and an Alsatian onion tart (also excellent). Main courses were pork chop roast with Madeira sauce, roast caribou (the special of the night), and roast Cornish hen. All were excellent, but the pork stands out for me: it was perfectly cooked and flavoured and came with a separate, beautifully seared piece of pork fat! For those of us who appreciate the expert use of fat in cooking, this was heavenly. The Cornish hen was also perfectly prepared - incredibly crispy and flavourful skin with tender, juicy meat. Nothing was over-the-top and there were no high-price ingredients; just a tour-de-force of exemplary cooking skill. One minor point: the Cornish hen was supposed to come with morel mushrooms, which were absent. This deserves special mention because I read a newspaper's review of this restaurant a few weeks ago and they said the exact same thing happened. They need to re-write their menu!

My only real disappointment was their wine list. Although it was adequate, I was expecting more for a self-proclaimed "wine bar". No older vintages that I could see and a fairly limited selection otherwise.

Overall, I think this is an excellent new restaurant. It is not often that I immediately think of returning to a restaurant that I have just visited, but the thought of that pork roast keeps me up at night!!

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