Just gotta say that TONY's "review" of Robert Sietsema's work as restaurant critic (12/7-13) was so off-base and unfair I'm rethinking my deep-discounted TONY subscription. TONY's panel of "industry insiders who know [the critics] best" dismissed Sietsema as "[holding] little sway except for college kids trying to find the best burrito."
Having boldly gone where no other critic had bothered to go for years(Washington Heights and Inwood, outer boroughs), Sietsema and his knowledge of the most exotic cuisines and the tiniest restaurant gems has made us appreciate the "real" New York, not merely the hyped. His recs are also perfect for readers who don't want or need to drop $50+/person on a meal.
Sietsema is also one of the few critics who doesn't restaurant-bash in order to aggrandize himself. When he finds a "new" place, he shares his excitement with everyone. Though his appreciation of organ meats makes me squirm, he's the critic whose tips have been the most valuable to us for the past 15 years.
If there's an article on "critiquing the critics of the critics" please count me in.