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Restaurants & Bars

Cote d'Azur Trip Report - Early September 2019 (short)

sam1 | Sep 9, 201905:21 AM     3

After 4 nights in St. Remy, we drove back towards Nice for a quick 36 hours in the area. We stayed in Eze. Last time we visited was 2015 when we stayed in Menton. Considering our brief stay, Eze was ideal and perfect. We were able to go to the beach at Cap d'Ail and drive into Nice for dinner both nights rather easily...despite the KRAZY winding roads up and down the mountains and cliffs.

We arrived just before a rain storm on Friday afternoon so we had to cancel our plans for La Pinede, a beach side seafood restaurant in Cap d'Ail that I enjoy usually. Without the view and the nice weather, it just wasn't worth it. Instead, we drove into Nice and tried our luck with Peixes, the seafood small plates bar from the people who own Bistro d'Antoine and Bar Oiseaux. Our hotel said they were full but when we walked by, they had 2 tables free at 8pm. We opted for the bar and had 2 small plates and 2 larger ones. The small ones were a basket of fried cuttlefish that were fun but no big deal. We also had a scallop carpaccio that unfortunately had some mango in it that didn't appeal to me. The larger plates on the other hand were big and delicious. Their steamed cod with whipped potatoes was a really hearty fish dish and done well. Their 'octopus stew' with gnocchi was also big, filling and delicious. We skipped dessert so we could get gelato at Finnochio as we have had in the past. We're very happy with that decision. Service at Peixes was fun, professional and warm. A very enjoyable meal.

Our final dinner was at Jan, also in Nice. I booked right at the 2 or 3 month opening and got 830pm for Saturday night which felt like the perfect time for dinner there. Quite frankly, dinner was perfect. The place was warm and inviting unlike many other Michelin star restaurants we've been to in France. Service was perfect...not rushed and not slow either. I believe we were there for about 2 hours with their base menu. The sommelier was friendly and we chatted about wine we liked. We opted for 2 glasses of Bourgogne Rouge since we were driving and had a night out after dinner. The base meal was 4 courses with a bunch of canapes and extra courses so that we left full but not ill. I can't even describe the things we ate because it had a lot of 'traditional south african' elements as we were repeatedly told but it was all delicious...particularly the mains of Saint Pierre with octopus carpaccio and milk fed lamb (essentially their take on meat and potatoes). Dessert was a jelly and meringue concoction that worked well. Highly recommended meal in Nice. One of our most enjoyable meals.

We love the Cote d'Azur and even in 36 hours, we had an absolute blast. The views, the beaches, the culture, the cycling, and the food are really special.

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