Restaurants & Bars

Costa Brava Visit

torta basilica | Aug 12, 200510:11 PM

We loved the Hostal de la Gavina - just a beautiful hotel & very reasonable for a European 5 star - one bedroom suite with seaview balcony for 385E. In S'Agaro, kindof the middle of the Costa Brava. The dinners here came highly recommended, but since we were doing El Bulli & thought we were doing El Celler de can Roca, decided to cut way back both on cost & formality of other meals. One of our windows overlooked the lovely patio where they hold the Candlelight dinner - had it's own grotto, looked very romantic & all seemed to be having a wonderful time - the last party left at 2am...

Had dinner 2 nights in a row at can Pescador in Sant Feliu, 2 little towns south of our hotel - about 4 mins by taxi. Very touristy - the menu was in at least 8 languages, including Greek! However, it was charming, in an old fisherman's house, the service was excellent & the food just wonderful. Started with the complimentary green olives that are so wonderful - why can't we get them like that in the States? Meaty, smoky, not vinigery - I'm addicted. Bottle of Martin Codax blanco for 18E - still my favorite! Had baby calamari lightly fried & served with lemon, some the the best razor clams ever - not too big, not too small & so tasty I was mopping up the juices with the yummy bread. Best, though, is their suqet - an incredible stew of a large double filet of monkfish, clams & shrimp in a red/brown brandy (?) sauce, service in a large crockery bowl it was cooked it. We split this both nights & definitely the best suqet I've ever had & boy do you go through the bread soaking up the sauce & scraping off the pan sides for the richer 'well-done' sauce. This restaurant was very reasonable & highly recommended. Waters were just charming & even though it was full the 2nd night when we just showed up, they cleared off part of the family's table at the back & separated off a table for 2 for us, leaving the family somewhat squished, but making us feel very special & welcomed. Can't wait to return to this part of Spain!

Lunch our 2nd to the last day at Taverna del Mar, right down the street from the hotel. Very upscale without being stuffy (although the older female hostess was a bit of a snot...), charming prints & artwork, the whole back wall opens to the beach, so lots to watch. Best part was a huge pitcher of cava sangria, full of fruits & berries I wanted to stick a spoon in it (one without the hole traditionally used for stirring sangria!) & eat it all. The meal was a bit of a blur - I remember clams, a carpacchio of some Med fish & more monkfish..., but good.

Will do El Bulli review separately & we had the wrong day down for our El Cellar reservations (sorry, Jordi, but thanks for all your help & now we really have to return!) & they were closed the following day.

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