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copenhagen - the new san sebastien?

marcus james | Jun 6, 2008 05:02 PM

ok, so i am just in from mr.

in the past i've been to noma and had friends a geranium (recently).

aside from plaudits for all the other gaffs - paul, nimb etc, etc, this has got to be one of the most exciting food cities. i've been coming here regularly off and on; 4 years ago there were about 3 michelin star gaffs, so in relative terms it's all got interesting very quickly.

tonight was exemplary, not least the prawns and wild green strawberry jelly (no, i didn't think it would work either). a smoked hens egg with asparagus (cooked sous vide and cracked at the table) and a trio of desserts which redefined my expectancies.

being scandinavia the kronar humiliates the pound and, of course, the $ and € as a result, but this was one of the most exciting meals i've had of late. am going to paris in september, but as my host kept saying, one star here is two or three elsewhere... i can't help but (reluctantly) feel he may be right...

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