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Cook and Brown, Providence: death by a thousand cuts


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Cook and Brown, Providence: death by a thousand cuts

Tartinet | Sep 19, 2012 12:19 PM

I really want to like Cook and Brown: it's got a great approach to local, seasonal, and interesting food, it's a mom-n-pop operation, and it's got a great space, but I've had too many little things go wrong there. Any one of these would be an "oh well, off night, no biggie" but it's reached critical mass. Ive been there four times, and the laundry list includes: bizarrely hard "walnuts" that had the texture of bone fragments, stale bread, an insufficiently sturdy brioche bun on a hamburger, hilariously terrible music (and it takes a lot to make me notice), wilted, slimy lettuce in a salad, a strange plasticky aroma to some bread, and well-intentioned but amateur service.

In those four visits, I also had some really delicious food-- a succulent and velvety ragu, a tender and juicy burger (perfectly cooked), some delightful vegetable purees and creamy soups, fresh, sprightly salads, a great smoked bluefish pate, creative, well-executed cocktails, and really sensitively-handled seasonal vegetables.

So I don't know what the deal is-- I suspect it's an issue of training. The concepts are usually good, but they suffer in the execution.

I do hope they figure it out. I'm going to give them some time before I try again. There are too many great places in Providence for me to keep going back frequently.

Or maybe my experiences have just been a string of unlucky coincidences. What's your experience been?

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