Continuing my blistering pace of carniverousness, I found myself sitting down at Dan Tanas last night for my fourth steak in as many nights. Once again -- as has been true every time Ive been there, -- I was served a perfectly cut, perfectly cooked piece of meat. I always seem to order their 12 oz. New York, and the reason I keep doing so is because its so flawless. They always create a nice, semi-crisp crust and they are able to cook it precisely the right amount of time; my three companions each ordered steak and requested varying degrees of doneness, each was a textbook example of their request. We branched out and ordered a couple of new things this time. We had their onion rings, which are very unusual. They seem to fry them without any batter at all. Just crispy, fried onion. A very pure onion ring without being weighed down by anything extra. The less-cooked onions were better, and the batch was a bit dark overall, but they were damn good. After dinner we had their coffee ice cream, which again was unusual. It was pitch black and delicious, rich and peppered with crunchy coffee beans. This was far better than I expected. Dan Tanas seems to be a bit of a cliché, and the crowd that it draws is easy to distance oneself from but I have to say that they really deliver what they promise. Everything Ive eaten there is top-notch. Old-fashioned, yes. Not conforming to any current trends, yes. But, boy, do they know how to make a steak. And, when youre in the mood, its a great room intimate, warm and clubby. I was lucky enough to have a friend who brought a magnum of Altamura Cabernet 1996 so we were spared having to brave their one, gaping weakness: their pathetic wine list.