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[Concord] Colonial Inn

Harters | May 27, 2012 02:07 AM

It’s a small village with few opportunities to eat in the very immediate area. The Colonial Inn is, however, full of the rustic charm that you seem to get the world over in such circumstances. The building seems a bit frayed round the edges. And so is the service. But the menu reads well and is full of straightforward, unchallenging dishes. You know you’re going to be well fed , even if dinner isn’t going to excite the tastebuds.

Shrimp and cheddar fritters were savoury and tasty, with neither of the main ingredients pre-dominating. The accompanying pickled vegetables – cauliflower, pepper and fennel – provided a good texture contrast with a welcome mustardy tang. But the creole sauce was lost in the other ingredients. I needed something light to and went with an endive salad. Good vinaigrette dressing. A sprinkling of dried cranberries and candied walnuts offered a contrast to the bitterness of the endive, while a little gorgonzola added a different sort of tang.

I followed with Cornish hen. A generous serving of moist, tasty bird; the skin crisped under a grape glaze. There was a little well crafted mushroom risotto and a few baked baby courgettes. The other main course was a roasted fillet of haddock. Perhaps a tad overdone but still very flavoursome, even if texture had started to wane. There was a corn risotto, also disappointingly overwork. There was also a little cream sauce, apparently flavoured by lobster, but this was very underwhelming. In spite of the criticisms , this was still very enjoyable but it was a dish worthy of the home cook, not a professional kitchen.

We passed on dessert, but did have some very good coffee.

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