Restaurants & Bars 4

Comptoir Gascon, Clerkenwell, London

limster | Jun 9, 200801:48 PM

A subtle but insistent nutty flavour lingers deliciously on the palate, long after the fat, gorgeous stalks of white asparagus have been eaten. The stems snap sharply and crisply, the tips are tender. A luxuriant hollandaise, a thick, foamy cloud, its tangy flavour wrapping around the initial vegetal flavours of the asparagus, and following it to its nutty conclusion.

Duck confit is well made, the meat just a bit past ruby. Skin could be even crispier but it's a quibble. Served on wet base of cabbage and beans. The comfort food of Southwestern France.

A solid glass of a Syrah blend, forward but with balance.

The rhubarb crumble is small and simple. Good chunks of fresh-tasting rhubarb mixed with bready cubes and topped with a pleasant vanilla ice, cold against the fresh-baked warmth.

A touch expensive on the whole imho, but the asparagus was totally worth it. Bustling dining room with comfortable earth and wood tones, dashes of green. Efficient bistro service from a small crew.

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