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Restaurants & Bars

Compass

Peter | Jul 3, 2002 07:37 AM

I ate at Compass last night, and today got to read Asimov's review in the Times.

First the bad news.
They have some kinks to work out. e.g., silverware should arrive before the dishes you need the silverware for. The menu is a tad unclear (there are dishes on the tasting menu which aren't on the regular menu.....it turns out you CAN have those dishes a la carte, if you like; you can also substitute from the main menu to the tasting menu, if you want a tasting size). While it's a nice touch to offer something to cleanse the palate between the main course and desert, caramelized fennel doesn't so much cleanse the palate as steam-blast it.

But there's lots of good news. Most particularly, the food is good. The atmosphere is nice. And the wait-staff, while a touch over-solicitous for my taste, is helpful.

What we ate:
Me: Confit of copper river salmon with foie gras; magret of duck with fava beans; molten chocolate cake with Thai pepper sauce and ice cream

My wife: Chilled corn soup; cod; chocolate tart.

I can only really comment on my food.
The salmon was wonderful; rich and sea-y (is that a word?). The foie gras on top was a surprisingly good accompaniment; the flavors blended nicely. A very rich appetizer.

The duck was also good. I am not sure what kind of duck they used, but was a bit gamier than the usual, which I like.

The molten chocolate cake was wonderful. Hot mixed with cold, sweet with savory, and it all went together great.

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