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Club 647, Buenos Aires--a dissent


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Restaurants & Bars 13

Club 647, Buenos Aires--a dissent

AppleSister | Nov 28, 2008 10:38 AM

My friends and I went to the much-touted Club 647 a few nights ago, and we felt very strongly as a public-service announcement that we had to post this review. In short, it was the worst meal we’ve had so far in Buenos Aires. To give you some context, we’ve been to La Dorita, Don Julio, La Cabrera, La Cupertina, El Sanjuanino, and had great food everywhere. We’re from New York and San Francisco and mainly pick places to travel based on what we’ll find to eat when we get there. We tend to shy away from places that try to be “New York” restaurants, so perhaps we were unfairly biased. Maybe if you are into shiny black and red walls, lots of mirrors, and glossy photos of half-naked women with your food, you might like this place better than we did. And one big caveat—it’s possible that the chef has changed as the person on the menu was not the same person listed in TimeOut.

We had two entradas—the green salad that was good and fresh, even if I thought the dressing was too sweet, and the pear and goat cheese tart tatin which was tasty and enjoyable.
The entrees, however, were very poorly executed. My squid ink and saffron pasta was thankfully not overcooked, but all the mussels, scallops and shrimp in it were. You could smell how overcooked it was as soon as it was brought to the table. It needed salt desperately to add some flavor, any flavor.

My friend’s pork loin was dry and the soufflé of sweet potato and chipotle had a very odd, overly strong onion flavor, though it’s possible sweet potatoes here taste very, very different than sweet potatos in the U.S. Worse, my other friend’s duck three ways was at best, decent duck one way. The duck confit was dry and the phyllo dough covered duck was even drier, from the dough to the filling.

As my friend put it, the food felt dishonest. On a different day, we had ducked into Manolo’s in San Telmo when nothing else was open for lunch, and had a sort of chewy-tough milanesa slathered in ham, cheese and tomato sauce, with lots of hot, fresh French fries. It wasn't anything to write home about, but the service was kind and the food was honest. Club 647 was not.

I also noticed, after going to the restaurant, that most of the rave reviews are from posters who are very new to Chowhound.

I did like my cocktail, a gin martini with lemongrass and cilantro flavors.

We didn’t try any dessert. We had to get out of there—air conditioning must have been broken—before my friend passed out.

We really don’t like slamming a place we’ve only been to once, but we didn’t want anyone to go there like we did, having heard only uniformly positive reviews.

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