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Mr. Churros in Santa Rosa

Melanie Wong | Oct 12, 200403:34 AM

When the new churro law went into effect in January, allowing the deep-frying and sale of churros from mobile street carts, I had visions of fresh churros on every street corner. But searching for them in the Mexican street food neighborhoods, it seemed that there were even fewer of these gypsies than before the change.

Friday night I was looking for a snack along Santa Rosa’s taco truck row and saw a glimpse of the hoped for future: a brightly lit churro cart in the parking lot of 1580 Sebastopol Road. This is a fully tricked out cart with running water, a mixing station, deep-fryer, and warmer, manned by three young women. They said they're here every night from 5pm to 10pm.

The churros are available filled with cajeta (caramel) or fresa (strawberry) cream, or plain. I bought one each of cajeta and plain, $2.25 total. A flimsy paper plate was wrapped around the pair of churros, slipped in a narrow paper sack, and then placed into a plastic bag. Packing them that way gave me even odds of being able to eat them in the car without dropping sugar all over the upholstery or me. So, once in the car, I tucked into them. Looking around me, the other cars were all occupied by families munching on hot churros.

I wish I could say that these churros were as good as the churro master of the Fruivale. But, no, they don’t have the eggy richness or the tender, lightness of his. Freshly made and hot out of the fryer, they’re better than premade and reheated ones. The plain one had a wide opening through the center, where the cream would go if it were the filled variety. Without the filling, it was too hard, a little tough, and not quite sweet enough. The oozing hot caramel shot through the cajeta-filled one made all the difference. As delicious as it was, it’s so rich and unctuous, I could eat only a few bites.



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