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Restaurants & Bars 4

more Chung Ki Wah-ness

Thi N. | Jul 25, 200202:27 AM

I keep going to other Korean joints, but - other than the fave soontofu - I keep coming back to Chung Ki Wah. Best damn BBQ - deep beef flavor, best damn naengymon, and now -

Last time I was there, Amy ordered some fish. I believe it was on the menu as boiled and spiced cod.

Man, this was a fish.

There is a deep divide in fish-theory between the Westerners and the Easterners. Europeans, I think, like a certain toughness and fleshliness to their fish - Asians, a certain ethereal softness. This does not apply to everything (thai fried fish is as meaty and hearty as anything). I can grill a mean fish provencal-style (home-made tapenade over fennel-stuffed sea bass! how to make a girl swoon for you! as if you'd notice because you're too busy fighting her for the scraps! so easy!), but it entirely evades me how to get this softness.

Chung Ki Wah, man. This dish. The flavor - I think it was good, the sauce was good, but I didn't notice - it was overwhelming in its flavor/texture gestalt. This is - not quite creamy, but fantastically gently soft - you know how sometimes, when you steam a fish, at the very belly, at the fatty part, it has this texture that you can't quite track, because it melts faster than you can comprehend it, it just evaporates, but it is so glorious?

This whole fish is like that.

I have a fetish for this kind of thing. Fresh tofu is close. Young coconut flesh is closer. This is the center of it. And it is *fish*, for chrissakes! COD, for chrissakes!

Anyway, hell yeah.

This fish got *inhaled*.

Also, this time their banchan had really fine fermented soybeans. Sweet that dives into... imagine the love of blue cheese applied to soy.


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