Restaurants & Bars

Chow alert SEA---sea urchins at Kisaku (and probably elsewhere?)

BradS | Jan 29, 200401:28 AM     5

Maybe I'm being overly enthusiastic, but I just tried sea urchin nigiri for the first time tonight at Kisaku (in the south Green Lake neighborhood) and I was blown away by the flavor. A sushi fanatic tipped me off that the sea urchins were really good right now (I think he meant in many places, not necessarily just Kisaku), and I have to agree. What I got, for a mere $6, was two generous spoonfuls of something that looked a bit like peanut butter atop 2 nigiri rolls (if that's the correct term), and it was one of the few sushi items I've ever had no need for even the faintest touch of wasabi (not that I've tried all that much beyond the basics). It was so buttery creamy, maybe a little nutty, very rich and clean tasting, and it had the most amazing aftertaste that exactly mirrored how the ocean smells when you're walking along it, except of course it was a flavor, not a smell. So, I urge everyone who hasn't tried this to go get some! Even my sushi-averse wife, who tried just a smidgeon, was suitably impressed. My understanding is that when sea urchin is bad, it is very very bad, so it's probably worth taking of advantage of the times when it is good.

Oh, everything else I had (kisaku roll, albacore sashimi in sesame sauce (they didn't have the scallop version of this), my wife's broiled salmon) was fine, but not earth-shattering. My 5-year-old daughter wolfed down her octopus nigiri before I could even sample, so I don't know about that...

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