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Any Chinese restaurants that don't overcook kidneys?

Bryan Loofbourrow | Aug 4, 200305:54 PM

I really like kidneys. What I don't much like, is cooking them. Coring them without mutilating them is a pain. Scoring them, without cutting all the way through the kidney, is a pain. Plus, after I've been working with, and smelling, them raw for a while, I'm less able to enjoy their distinctive qualities in the final dish. I'd like someone else to make them for me.

The problem is, that when I cook them to my taste, they're bouncy and fresh-tasting. When I have them at Chinese restaurants, they're heavy-textured and taste of liver. Basically, in my opinion, they're cooked too much. I have trouble believing that that's really they way Chinese people prefer them, both because it doesn't make sense, and because I had some great ones in Hong Kong that were not overcooked.

I'm still early in my exploration of Bay Area kidneys -- I've had them only at Shanghai Gourmet (Richmond) and Hing Lung (the great congee place on Broadway). The Shanghai Gourmet ones were actually pretty tasty, because of a thick, tasty assertive Shanghai sauce, but they would have been so much better if cooked a bit less. Anyone know a place that does kidneys the way I'm looking for?

-- Bryan

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