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Another China Star Post

James G | Nov 19, 2004 08:59 PM

So I went to lunch at CS today, ostensibly to meet a fellow for a business meeting (but he never showed up). I thus wound up dining solo, deciding to take this opportunity to try out some small dishes that I rarely get to. Thus I tried the coriander fish rolls that are often on the specials menu at last, along with an order of dan dan mian (a Sichuan noodle dish) and chicken broth wontons.

The fish rolls were not at all what I was expecting; they turned out to be cigar-shaped rolls of spring roll skin, filled with a mixture of chopped fish and coriander and then fried. While the flavor was very clean and fresh, I thought the dish would have benefited from a dipping sauce (none was provided).

The dan dan mian were astounding! I have had dan dan mian in many places around China and the US, and rarely do the US versions come close to approximating the authentic combination of heat, numbing, and depth of flavor that is so key to the dish. Even the noodles themselves were perfect, with exactly the right combination of tenderness and crunch.

The chicken broth wontons were a bit wan, with very subtle flavor (too subtle, really, especially along with the dan dan mian). However, dipping them in the dan dan mian sauce really livened them up a bit...

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