Went to Chichen Itza in Mercado La Paloma, near downtown, thanks, thanks to all those who recommended it. (I think Dommy! was the first.)
It's Yucatanese. The chicken pibl is gorgeous - satin-y sauce with this one, high, singing, beautiful flavor - not quite sour, not quite citrusy, something else. I suspect epazote, but that's only because I have no idea what that herb tastes like, but if it tasted like this, I would grow it in every conceivable orifice of my apartment.
Comes with fresh habernero sauce, which, with some of the chicken and beans and rice in fresh tortilla - majesty.
Surprise, though. Favorite thing was the... papazdul? Weirdly spelt thingamajig. Fresh tortillas rolled around... soft-boiled egg that's been half-mashed up? And covered with an orange sauce that has that same high, singing flavor, and with some greenish sauce - maybe nuts in it? Pumpkin-seed? Can't tell. But the egg acquires this marvellous, cloud-like fluffiness - but contained within tender tortilla. And that gorgeous flavor!
It's da bomb, daddy-o.