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Chez Liline, Finsbury Park, London


Restaurants & Bars 11

Chez Liline, Finsbury Park, London

limster | Feb 14, 2009 01:47 PM

Immense but mellow fish and seafood flavour from the seafood soup, rounded by tomato, enriched by a garlicky rouille, lifted with the sharpness of flat leafed parsley, contrasted against toasted slices of bread softened in the centre with butter. The texture of the soup was great - afforded a certain soft thickness, probably from the gelatin of fish bones. A perfect prawn, butterflied in the shell, ripping easily on the teeth. Succulent mussels.

A generous hunk of grouper, very precisely cooked - moist, flaking in large pieces, firm, with just faintest bit of springy texture. A Mauritian sauce, with a variety of herbs, tomato and spices (perhaps coriander somewhere, and a more obvious appearance of ginger). Rice on the side.

Excellent green beans and chow chow (a type of squash) beautifully oiled, fragrant with caramelised shallots.

A gorgeous puffy chocolate mousse, while featuring merely good but not out of this world chocolate, exemplified excellent technique.

Exceptional care in the cooking, impeccable classic technique (echoes of old school French), honest and deep flavours, high quality fish (they also own the fish monger next door).

Probably one of my best meals in a long while.

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