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Restaurants & Bars 5

C.F. Donovan's Bianco Pizza: Blecch

hiddenboston | Apr 28, 200805:46 AM

We got back to C.F. Donovan's in Dorchester over the weekend after several months away from the place (I have been nervous about the almost monthly turnover of chefs there). I ended up trying the bianco pizza, and was that ever a mistake. It was undercooked on the bottom, with the crust almost having the nasty texture of a school lunch pizza. And the cheese on top was dried out and burnt. In between, there was a mix of diced tomatoes, garlic, oil, and basil, and, inexplicably, tomato sauce (keep in mind that this is a bianco pizza--very confusing). I came very close to having them take the pizza back, but decided not to bother (I probably should have in retrospect). I've been to Donovan's many, many times without ever having a bad meal there, and to be fair, my GF's haddock dish was very good, but still, I left the place worrying that maybe the place isn't what it used to be.

On the upside, I had some really good pizza later in the weekend at a family gathering. The pizza came from a place called Abbondanza in Norwood (no relation to the one in Everett), and it reminded me a little of the pizza at the Paddock in Somerville (which is a very good thing, IMO). It was impressive stuff, and picked up my spirits a bit after the disappointing pizza at Donovan's.

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