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Boston Area Cambridge

Centro, Central Sq., Cambridge

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Restaurants & Bars

Centro, Central Sq., Cambridge

Limster | Apr 14, 2003 10:46 PM

A buddy of mine who once brought me to wonderful Gregoire in Berkeley took me there, so I knew it was going to be good.

Evocative spring was bright and green in al dente peas and soft leeks that bathed in a soup based on milk and cinnamon and other good vegetables. These savoury and verdant flavours coupled well, oiled by streaks of some light orange oil that I couldn't identify (some infused olive oil perhhaps?).

A whole trout, head to tail, was artfully boned and stuffed with sticks of mild fennel. Matte crispy skin, sweet soft flesh -- a good roasting. Beneath, a green bed of green (kale?) and a light tangy sauce, perhaps a subtle application of the advertised ginger.

An initially pruney barbera evolved to dark soft berries over the course of dinner.

Lastly, one fine poached pear, luscious caramel sauce, and a tiny bit of heavy mascarpone (wish there was more) piped into the cored cavity.

Very reasonable pricing (all entrees $18 or less) for excellent and fresh cooking, elegantly simple, but impeccably executed.

See link below for the another somewhat recent posting on Centro.

Link: http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/...

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