Don't miss Terra Luna on 6A in North Truro. Delicious creative food with Italian roots--pasta (try the linguine with shrimp and feta and spinach, which I realize isn't exactly Italian!), polenta, lots of fish, chicken, and meat, too. Terrific organic salads with a delicious orange-ginger-tamari dressing. And best of all--no deep-fried seafood, a welcome change from what's offered pretty much everywhere else.
In Wellfleet, Flying Fish Cafe has more interesting and healthier offerings than anywhere else, esp great breakfasts.
My favorite for seafood these days is right on Rt 6 in Eastham--the Eastham Lobster Pool. It gets really crowded in the evenings, so we usually go for lunch or an early supper. Sit outside under the awning, and don't miss their Key West Chowder, a tomato-based, spicy clam chowde with lots of clams. They do a very good job with all sorts of fish, too. This is another place to get broiled or grilled fish if you're sick of deep-fried. Though I do have to admit that the fish and chips and the fishwich (with a piece of deep-fried fish) are also delicious!
Can't wait to get back there!