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Camogli (San Rocco, San Fruttuoso, and a brief mention of Genoa) Trip Report

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Camogli (San Rocco, San Fruttuoso, and a brief mention of Genoa) Trip Report

sam1 | Sep 12, 2016 08:06 AM

Just got back from our late summer vacation to Camogli...one of the best trips we've ever had. We keep going back to the Mediterranean...Costa Brava 2 years back, Alps Maritimes last summer...but this trip was right up there and better in many ways...particularly the food (at least versus France). Thanks to everyone on the board for answering my questions and helping us pick the right spots.

-Dinner at Mille e una notte...Funny enough, our first dinner in the area was the worst. We had a 730 reservation to see the sunset but as we've discovered in Italy, dinnertime is more like 9pm. We took some nice photos before dinner but I think the restaurant looks a bit more shabby than we anticipated from the internet reviews. We had a bottle of a Ligurian red from Varigotti ...a grape that I forget but tasted of Grenache. Wine prices in the whole area were super inexpensive unless you went for the trophy Barolos and Barbarescos that they have on the menu for tourists. We split a seafood antipasti that I barely remember but did have a lot of mayo in it (not good). Pasta was a seafood tagliatelle that had a sauce that was quite thick and syrup-y. I ordered a seafood lasagna with pesto on top that was a straight gut bomb. We also split their signature octopus diavalo that tasted more of ketchup than anything else. Service was fine and the place was full on a Thursday but I found this was the worst food we had in the area.

-Lunch/Snack of various foccacia at Revello was just perfect. Inexpensive, right out of the oven, everything we had was delicious there. Onion foccacia, a spinach quiche, focaccia al formaggio...and the desserts were great too. Not the friendliest to tourists but you can't not go here if you're in the area.

-Drinks at Bar Dai Muagetti and Dinner at Nonna Nina...If you are in this area, you must visit these two places for sunset drinks and then dinner. It was such a memorable experience, we recreated it on our final night and did not regret it one bit. The bar is located down the road from Nonna Nina where cars can't go. Someone mentioned the walk around the curve by the church as being special and I totally agree. Drinks were fine...it does get hot at the bar with the sun and you need reservations or you're waiting 20-30 minutes. Service could be better but with that view, it doesn't matter.

Nonna Nina was potentially going to be scrapped because I read so many mixed reviews. It's really the best food in the area and despite what I read, the service wasn't gruff at all. The owner is not a sweetheart but she saw that we loved the food and warmed up to us. Seafood antipasti was delicious, we regrettably split the trofie al pesto (regret because it was absolutely amazing) and I had a simple grilled fish that was a bit salty but fine nonetheless. Dessert was a piece of peach/amaretto cake that was perfect. A half bottle of Rossese wine that tasted of a light pinot noir for $8 was kind of perfect. The restaurant itself was a bit nicer than I expected in terms of looks. I loved this place.

-We spent the morning in San Fruttuoso at the beach. My only advice is to get there before 1030 because the place got super crowded and people were still being dropped off by the ferries. We got there at the right time and had a great spot with a sun bed all day. Lunch was at Da Laura. I think this was the best place for food on the beach despite the other options. The lasagnette a la pesto was delicious. We split an entree of fried seafood that was done quite well. Service was perfect...way more friendly than they needed to be considering that location. Note that the waiter/owner shared with us that because of new regulations, they are closing all of the restaurants on the beach and relocating them. Da Laura is moving first. Such a horrible shame. The view in the cove is beyond memorable.

-Dinner at Braceria le gole di cerbero just off the beachside promenade was very good if for nothing else that we had meat and skipped seafood for a change of pace. The waiter was mobbed...he was the only one working the place but he did the job well. Steak tartare trio is a good starter as is the burrata with tomatoes. Wine list was well priced. We had a Valpolicella that was good but pretty heavy with the oak. The steaks we had were good but not outstanding. We enjoyed our meal though and would recommend this place.

-Sunday we went to Genoa. We ended up cancelling our meal at Il Marin in the Eataly by the port mainly due to the fact that we felt pretty uncomfortable in town. The port area had loads of tourists but in town, we were followed by a group of people and were surprised at the amount of prostitutes right in the museum strip right at 1pm on a Sunday. We live in NYC and travel to many cities but just felt like Genoa was a bit too grimey for our taste. On another note, their museums were not particularly great. I was expecting to love Genoa but just didn't.

-Instead we drove back to Camogli for dinner at Ostaia da o sigu which was surprisingly delicious. We didn't expect the food to be this good on the promenade but the trofie nero with seafood, the spaghetti with anchovies and the mixed seafood entree were just awesome. Great bottle of syrah from Sicily as well. This was the second best meal in the area that we had.

-We went to Revello again for lunch and loved all of the food once again.

-Last dinner was Nonna Nina and with aperitivo at Dai Muagetti again. This time, we had the house antipasti which had many fried breads that was delicious. We learned our lesson and each ordered a bowl of trofie al pesto and we split the rabbit ligurian style which was delicious and reminded me of rabbit I had last summer in Gorbio...a mountain town near Nice. Dinner was possibly better than the first time and the owner was super sweet to us.

I can't recommend this town enough. We really loved it and plan to return again.

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