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Boston Area Brookline

Cafe Samovar, Brookline Village

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Cafe Samovar, Brookline Village

limster | Jul 5, 2006 04:59 AM

A meat solanka, a light tomato-based soup flavoured with a variety of sausage and cold cuts, with several degrees of sournessfrom light to heavy: tomato, lemon, olive and sour cream. An airy finish of dill. Quite appetizing.

The proverbial stick of butter makes an appearance in the Chicken Kiev. A crisp golden brown shell, fairly tender chicken. An appropriate lack of subtlety with butter, gushing with the first cut. A lighter coat of butter on the side of kahsa varnichka, bow tie pasta with kasha/buckwheat. A pleasantly made dish, homey and comfortable.

The sweet, unpretenious room hints of old Europe, more village or town than mansion, electric chandeliers, textured wallpaper with flowers in muted tones, multicoloured Russian dolls. In the tableclothes, more intense hues of reds and blacks, roses in the night.

An inexpensive lunch -- $15 with tax and tip for the above.

Down-to-earth Russian home-cooking, certainly pleasant enough to try again. Perhaps borscht, pirozhki or sour cherry vareniki the next time.

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