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Cafe Levonya Report

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Cafe Levonya Report

C. Simon | Jan 6, 2003 03:14 PM

Restaurants like this are few and far between. A Russian-Jewish woman and her Aremnian husband serve un-westernized versions of the dishes they love.

First, the waitresss brought us slices of brown bread and whole pickles to nibble on while we looked over the menu. The pickles were perfect.

We started with a salad with dried curried beef. This was tasty, but probably our least favorite of the dishes we had.

The borscht was excellent. A red broth that had such a faint beet flavor that one could almost have confused it with a tomato-based broth. We chose the version with cubes of fork tender beef, but I suspect that the vegetarian version wouldn't have lost any of the flavor. A perfect soul-warming dish on a snowy evening.

I had lamb dumplings. She had beef blintzes. Both were delicious. Warning: the lamb dumplings have a strong flavor (and odor!) of lamb. If you're me, that's a good thing. Other people might not be such big fans.

Note: If the waitress keeps telling you how hot and spicy the sauce is that comes (along with sour cream) as a side with nearly everything on the menu, don't believe her. Even my wimpy tase buds found no hint of spiciness.

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