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Dan Sonenberg | Oct 5, 199810:08 AM    

As my posts have by now probably revealed, I'm a
chowhound trapped on the Upper West Side--a fairly dire
fate. The UWS brunch scene has always seemed to me to
be near-catastrophic, with long lines and mediocre
food. How surprised I was to discover that a refuge
from this chaos could be had at Dock's--a restaurant
that seemed to me to offer fresh, boring, and
expensive seafood for dinner in a loudish environment.
Saturday I had Brunch at Dock's for the second time and
it was again head and shoulders above the local
competition. At $12.95 including one drink (the
mimosas are made with fresh-squeezed o.j., the bloody
marys are large) a great bread basket, an entree, and
coffee or tea, they are priced about even with the
others. So why is it never packed? Maybe the
perception of it being more expensive keeps the throngs
away. Fine by me. I ordered Scotch Eggs Benny, which
substitutes excellent quality smoked salmon (and they
have the decency to remove all brown spots) for the
traditional canadian bacon (is that actually the
traditional thing?). It was really a sublime
cholesterol extravaganza, with a delicious,
tangy and uncongealed hollandaise sauce, delightfully
runny eggs, copious slices of salmon, and served
on...I think it was a bialy under all that good stuff!
Others at my table ordered kippers and onions, which
looked great, the omelette of the day, which also
looked great, and a bagel and lox plate, which
looked...well...great. Everybody was extremely happy.
The portions are generous, and the freshness of all
ingredients was beyond question. The service too,
which seemed slightly overburdened when I went for
dinner, was friendly and efficient. I only wish that
the bar, next to which we sat, hadn't been covered with
beer cartons, because Dock's is otherwise such a pretty
place.

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