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Outer Boroughs Dumplings

(Bring Me)100 Dumpling Garden


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(Bring Me)100 Dumpling Garden

Iron Frank | Nov 20, 2002 11:14 PM

Definitely bring your own scorecard and a busload of friends to make it through the list of dumplings. The English menu tops out at 67 dumplings while the Chinese menu has 100 or so. I'm not sure if they're including the limited cold appetizers on the Chinese dumpling menu or not.

We started with a very generous portion of seaweed salad. It was thick and chewy with a spicy afterburn from a lot of hot chili oil.

I preferred the boiled varieties of dumplings in general(as usual) to let the flavor distinctions unfold and to get past the "everything fried tastes better" syndrome. From memory I believe we sampled fried pork with clam, lamb with calabaza, seafood with mustard greens, fresh squid with chives. I thought the standouts were the lamb which was a perfect flavor of fall, filled with shreds of pumpkin. The clam dumpling really hit me over the head with bivalve deliciousness.

On the boiled side of things we had shrimp with waterchestnuts, egg yoke with pine nuts, and for dessert red bean with honey. I thought the honey would make the red bean dumplings too sweet but quite the contrary it enhanced the red bean paste with a more complex flavor than I was expecting. The egg yoke dumpling was a comforting eggy flavor given a nutty sophistication from the pinenut. In general I thought the more delicate flavors were more receptive to boiling.

I'm not sure that it makes much sense to order almost 50 dollars in dumplings for dinner for four people, a neighboring table ordered less and brought their own sushi for a main course, but it sure was fun.


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