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Valencourte | Jan 17, 1999 08:40 AM

truth in bread:
My job takes me all over the world at all hours. I get
a chance to try a lot of cuisines, but to me the basic
truth of a place is it's bread. Just bread. Oh, if you
want to you can throw in some wine and green stuf and
a hunk of meat someone has pronounced incantations
over for a few hours. But Bread is the fastest simple
There is a very small wood fired brick oven bakery on
the coast of California thirty miles north of San
Francisco. The baker Chad Robertson and his wife
Elisabeth start around four every morning six days a
week. My first wiff of this manna mixed with sea salt
on ocean fog rolled in off Point Reays Station.
They are sruprisingly friendly for that hour of the
morning and treated me to a taste of five breads they
were prepairing for the day. Both studied at the CIA
and lived in France working in bakeries from Basque to
The Robertson's mill their own grain from farmers who
use no posions, any honey, olives, nuts or fruit the
same. no commercial yeast, pure water, sea salt.
Pure and simple. The best I have ever tasted.

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