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Restaurants & Bars 3

Brazen Head -- as good as I remember (SF)

Mrs. Smith | May 13, 200202:24 PM

Friday night found us at Brazen Head in Cow Hollow (or the Marina, depending on who you ask.)

The Caesar salad for two was as cold and fresh as I remember -- generous and eggy, with a good level of anchovy. Caesar's so often done wrong, it was good to have an old standard done well.

The ribeye special was advertised as being "blackened". I asked the server if it could be cooked blackened but still rare. He replied yes, but it wouldn't be as rare as perhaps I was used to. I accepted this risk and was amply rewarded. The blackening was delicious, and the meat was still quite red inside. The blackened outside was not overly spiced or salty, but added a depth of flavor that was delicious. I never once touched the salt shaker -- which is saying a lot for me in a steakhouse. The accompaniments were also excellent -- extremely hot, well-seasoned, rich garlic mashed potatoes, and steamed asparagus. Mr. Smith's NY strip with pepercorn sauce was again delicious and cooked a perfect medium-rare. His creamed spinach was one of the things I rank a steakhouse (creamed spinach is either delicious or vile, not often in between). It had the nice level of garlic and nutmeg,in a rich but not congealing sauce.

Creme brulee for dessert contained the only mistake, I think: powdered sugar sprinkled over the top of the burnt sugar crust. This was quickly remedied though, and the custard was delicious.

All this, plus 2 beers and 2 glasses of BV pinot came to 88 dollars before tip. Our waiter, Gil, was excellent -- attentive and knowledgeable. I hadn't been to this, one of my favorite restaurants (as others on Chowhound have heard before!) in several months, and I'm glad to say that quality and service have not suffered.

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