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Brasserie Du Dragon - Dim sum and more in Flushing

Pookipichu | Jan 21, 201609:57 AM

Brasserie Du Dragon is a new-ish restaurant in the Sheraton Hotel, Flushing. The space has gone through many different iterations with Chinese menus, Western menu, fusion, etc. and now it is back to Chinese.

The space is airy with soaring 50+ foot ceilings and one of the nicer rooms to eat in Flushing. What I liked about BDD is that they offered all day dim sum AND have a dedicated dim sum chef/specialist. The quality of the dim sum is a notch above other restaurants in Flushing and made to order as opposed to served on carts. The restaurant is much smaller than the typical dim sum banquet halls in Flushing, seating probably 30-40 people. Business is not brisk either, the restaurant has seldom been near capacity in multiple visits.

Unfortunately, 2 months ago, they stopped all day dim sum, because of lack of dim sum orders at night, so now the dim sum chef leaves after lunch. It's unfortunate when I see good restaurants in Flushing, change or reduce their offerings due to lack of business and this has been a recurring theme over the past year.

In addition to dim sum I've tried their regular menu, items are hit or miss and the price point is at premium to the average for the neighborhood.

Their salt and pepper squid is lackluster, without any special lightness of coating, crispness, tenderness of squid. It's not horrible, but not worth recommending.

Jasmine pork ribs are on the bone, nicely flavored, nicely presented, not excessively sweet or drenched in sauce, but the meat in 3 separate orders, is invariably dry-ish.

Sweet and sour pork was reasonably well executed and a dish that could be recommended if there are no issues with dairy. The pork has either been marinated in milk or milk powder has been used in the sauce, because there is a discernible milky taste in the dish. The pork is tender, sweet and sour elements are nicely balanced, eschewing over sweetening.

Their basil chicken is one of their stronger dishes, with sizzling casserole presentation, fragrant basil and tender chicken.

I've tried both the golden fried rice and crispy salty fish fried rice, both have clean flavors and are reasonably well prepared.

The strength of BDD is in their dim sum.

Their namesake BDD dumpling is tender, with clean shrimp flavor, better rice wrappers than other dim sum purveyors in Flushing.

Crab dumpling has little crab flavor but is also delicious (mostly shrimp) with generous dou miao (pea leaf) packed inside.

Their luo buo gao turnip cakes are cubed instead of the larger flat rectangles at other dim sum places in Flushing, and despite the larger surface area, are not overly greasy, instead they are deftly fried and seasoned.

BDD has signature porcupine sheng jian bao which are simply one of the cutest dim sum in NYC, the bun is fluffy and well made but the filling is sparse and mild in flavor. It is served in a sizzling casserole of onions.

Char siu bao were great one visit with very airy texture to the bao, filling was not generous, but quality meat (no gristle, excess fat) and was not overly sweetened. Second time ordering, the bao was cooled and I mentioned this to the waiter who said the kitchen and staff were overwhelmed because the restaurant was busier than usual (it was a weekend lunch and the restaurant was 80% full).

Chicken feet were well flavored but the sauce had become gummy and gelatinous, another temperature issue, the same day I had issues with the char siu bao.

They have a fried glutinous rice pork and shrimp dumpling where the nuomi (sticky rice) is fried until puffy and chewy. This dim sum is about texture and one of my favorite at BDD, crispy, light and chewy, really good with the Chinese mustard.

Their shredded duck dumplings do not have very much duck flavor and were unmemorable.

Noise level of the restaurant is low. Service is a bit slower when the restaurant is over 50% capacity, but friendly, professional and better than typical Flushing restaurants.

(For those sensitive to dairy, it is detectable in several dishes yet not listed on the menu, be advised)

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