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Bistro Laurent in Paso Again

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Bistro Laurent in Paso Again

e.d. | Jul 19, 2004 01:13 PM

Two years ago I happened upon Bistro Laurent and had a dinner so wonderful that I was back there the next day for lunch and then again a couple weeks later for dinner. Last year on my way through town I was going to stop again, but they were closed for renovations, so I had fine meals at Buona Tavola. But others on the boards suggested that Alloro was an even better Italian experience, so I was going to go there this year after an afternoon of tasting some incredible wines in the Paso area. But Alloro is now closed (divorce in the family I was told), so I happily went back to Bistro Laurent and had a good meal.

First, my one big complaint two years ago was about the wimpy bread that was served. Now the bread basket contained two different, tasty, crusty types of French bread, thinly sliced. A much better start. I then ordered the lobster bisque, which was a well prepared bisque with a nice lobster aroma, but not much lobster flavor. The next course, my favorite of the night, was a salmon tartare, lightly dressed and topped with chopped mesclun lettuces and thin deep-fried beet shreds—the textures of the beets and lettuces contrasting wonderfully with the rich raw fish. My main course with a crispy crab risotto topped with shrimp on a tomato coulis. This dish was also successful, the texture of the risotto was very interesting and its light cheesy and seafood flavor contrasted nicely with the seemingly unherbed coulis. I picked a bottle of Justin SB from the good wine list; it was perhaps a bit too dry for the risotto, but quite a powerful SB with an incredible finish. The service was fine and professional and I enjoyed my meal. I would happily go back again.

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