Restaurants & Bars

Biryani Park - Sri Lankan in Malden

Nab | Jul 18, 201107:06 PM     119

I've never known of a Sri Lankan restaurant in town, maybe somebody can recall a time there was. Thanks to the hound that gets around, galangatron, for tipping us off to this new addition.

There's not much in the way of regional South Asian fare (Keralan, Chettinad, Goan, Sri Lankan, etc) here, nor really elsewhere, just hasn't really been a common cuisine for restaurant dining. The NYT ran a nice piece on the Sri Lankan enclave in Tomkinsville, Staten Island. You hear about the occasional Sri Lankan restaurant pop up here and there around the country, but it's slim pickings.

Biryani Park has got the classic chowhound charm of being tucked in the back of a well-worn little market. If they ever relocate to the city, sell out and get a liquor license, we'll skewer them. ;)

The proprietoress, incredibly warm & welcoming with a razor sharp sense of humour, is a Tamil Sri Lankan.

While I wait, she brings out a Lankan lagniappe, piping hot fish cutlet that jumped outta the fryer and into my gaping maw. Heckuva hand with the fryer, the cutlet is crispy, with fluffy fishy innards dotted with spuds.

Lamprais ('lump rice' on the menu), brought to you by the Dutch, is I'm sure something to behold when dining in - big pile of turmeric-tinted samba rice, with an ample array of accompaniements including eggplant, fish curry, chicken curry, hard-boiled egg, and ash plantains. Each component carefully prepared with attention to spicing, every bite is different, keeping the most ADHDs of palates dialed in.

String hopper kottu (shredded/chopped fine noodle 'dry' curry kinda dish) is laced with slivers of carrots, chiles, and the occasional hunk of goat, is a pretty intense curry, not incendiary but certainly spicy and complex.

Biryani puts on display the craft of the kitchen, just an exemplary version, inch-long grains of rice with a toof, saffron, cardamom, cloves etc permeating the dish with layers of flavour. Really top-tier.

An egg hopper hopped into my bag. Who doesn't like an egg crepe.

Coconut sambol provides potent punctuation to all the dishes, as does Katta Sambol (chiles, dried Maldive fish, lime) which I purchased a jar of and is already getting a heckuva workout.

The kitchen is comprised of highly-skilled South Indian chef and cooks and I have a hunch that side of the menu will be rewarding as well.

Interesting things happening in Malden. I need to also get to Moroccan Hospitality.

105 Broadway(Rt99),
Malden, MA 02148
Business Hours:
Open 7 days a week (11:30 am – 10 :00 pm)
Catering is also available

NOTE: string hoppers and lamprais require 24-hrs advance notice

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